Accurate Miniatures SBD-1 Dauntless Build

NOV	DEC	FEB
	20
2006	2007	2008

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10 Nov 07 - 21 Jun 08

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Douglas SBD-1 Dauntless - Part 5

Tool Tip and Demo

Some of you guys will probably scratch your heads when you see how I do this next sequence. I’ve always looked at it as a six-of-one, half-dozen-of-the-other sort of thing. By the time the assembly is completed, you might have a better idea of why I did it or you will still be scratching your head. At least I will explain and if you don’t like it, go with the way we explain it on the instruction sheet.

I’m going to start this step by telling you about a tip and a tool. Since that are as many methods of building as there are modelers, you may have already heard about them or already be using them.

We all have our favorite modeling tool. Mine is the Touch ‘n Flow^TM glue applicator made by Creations Unlimited Hobby Products, Dept. P, Grand Rapids, MI 49505. It is available from most any knowledgeable hobby shop or by mail order. It is from the folks that brought us the Flex-a-File^TM. The device is nothing more than a glass tube with a hollow needle at one end. The whole system is designed to put liquid cement precisely where you want it. The finest brush applicator doesn’t even come close. It is very easy to control. You fill it by placing the end into your bottle of liquid cement and letting it fill to the level in the bottle. It’s now ready for use. Simply put the two pieces you are gluing together and apply the tip to the seam. You’ll never ever use another method. And you all know how hard it is to convert a modeler from their "proven best " methods.

If the tip should become clogged, (Don’t push the tip, only pull it.) Simply place it back into the cement bottle and allow it to dissolve the blockage. The only thing holding this little device from being the "perfect" modeling tool is it’s ability to eventually roll off of the table to the floor where it will immediately shatter! New swear words. The solution is fairly simple. I put a piece of masking tape around the tube. Now at least it won’t roll. It is now up to you to do your own klutz work by either dropping it or flipping it on the floor by leaving it too close to the edge of your work space. Still, pick up a spare. They’re hard to replace on that Sunday afternoon when you break it.

Now the tip. How many trailing edges and thin, small parts have we messed up by lousy glue application? More than we can probably count. Take a look at the photo. Two simple items and you will never again mess up these kinds of joints. Here is where your new little glue stick will make you say "why didn’t I know about this sooner!?"

I’m going to do the demo here in a minute. But first, I have to tell you that we’re going off the sheet briefly. Contrary to what the sheet says, I’m now going to glue the two wing tops to the wing bottom before gluing the wing bottom to the fuselage. I have my reasons. You will see. I am basically skipping past Step 5. I suggest you wait until I have completed the next couple of assemblies before you decide whether you want to follow my twisted path or stick with the instruction sheet. It will be your decision. The main reason I choose to vary the assembly is simply the color scheme the Dash 1 carries and my laziness when it comes to a lot of masking. Our Dash 3 and Dash 5 kits can and should be assembled as the instruction sheets state. As I said, more later.

Demo: Holding the unglued wing top to the wing bottom, carefully insert a razor blade in the seam. Now place the tip of your glue stick on the surface of the razor blade and move the tip toward the seam until a small amount of cement runs into the seam. Move the razor blade around the wing seam until the entire joint is glued. Remove the razor blade and gently press the surfaces together. Done. And without any of the usual slop over onto the outer surfaces or melted thin edges.